Aphonopelma seemani molted!

Aphonopelma seemani (Costa-Rican Zebra) post molt!

My Aphonopelma seemani (Costa-Rican Zebra) in the last day or two. I discovered the molted exoskeleton this morning. Was unable to sex the molt due to exoskeleton was damaged, maybe next time. The new size of my A. seemani is now about 3½”.

These are a New World species found Costa Rica, and also can found in Nicaragua and Guatemala where it lives in deep burrows in the tropical rain-forest. A. seemani are an average size tarantula reaching a legspan of 5″-6″.

A. seemani

A. seemani tends to be a bit skittish by nature and not recommended for beginners or for handling. Because they are found in tropical rain-forest, they require a bit higher humidity then most your average terrestrial, new world species. In captivity a high humidity is recommended, but I have found they will adapt to lower levels just fine. Always keep an open water dish full at all times to provide drinking and added humidity levels.

A. seemani

A. seemani are not necessarily aggressive, but rather fast for a terrestrial. Keep there temps between 70°F-85°F and they do fine. As with most tarantulas, A. seemani will eat just about anything that moves. Crickets and roaches are the most used in captivity though. Females can live upwards of 18 years while males will mature in 2-3 years.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herein represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Acanthoscurria geniculata Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Acanthoscurria geniculata

Common Name: Giant White Knee

Geographic Range: Brazil

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial, New World

• Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.
• Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.
• New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venomous, kick urticating hairs for defense.
• Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc… generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 70°F-85°F Humidity: Moderate

Growth/Size: Fast/8″ legspan Experience Level: Intermediate

Temperament: Semi aggressive, skittish, nervous
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read “WARNING” at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc… DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmful bacteria that could be harmfull to your tarantula and/or it’s enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite.
Provide 4″-12″ of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: 10-20 gal. tank
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial. For arboreal, they need more height then ground space, 1″-2″ of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for arboreal. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: 3-4 years to maturity and Females (up to 15 years).

2" Acanthoscurria geniculata in premolt.

Description:
Acanthoscurria geniculata were once the most popular tarantulas in the hobby and still are in my opinion, beautiful species. A. geniculata are large, impressive tarantulas with bright white stripes on their legs, and vibrant red hairs on a velvet black abdomen. A. geniculata make a great display tarantula as adults. A. geniculata seem to be content to just hang out in the open most of the time. As slings and sometime juveniles, they may burrow to feel safe. Once adults, they are capable of handling themselves and will attack there prey quickly and veraciously.

Keeping in captivity as pets:
You can use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc… for juveniles, up to 20 gal. tank for adults because there impressive size. This species prefers dry/moist, so moderate humidity levels will work and temps between 70°F-85°F work. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2″-4″ deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Young A. geniculata may burrow, but once they become adults (3-4 years), they tend to just sit around on the surface making great display specimen.

A. geniculata eat like there’s no tomorrow. Generally for adults, 2-3 large crickets or a large B. bubia roach once a week will suffice there needs, although they will happily eat more if you allow them to.

A. geniculata are generally considered semi aggressive, skittish or nervous species, don’t recommend handling, due to their nervousness and possible urticating hair flicking, which mine does anytime I open up it’s enclosure. A. geniculata will usually shy away when approached, but will defend themselves too if need be. Adult A. geniculata are powerful and have some very large fangs that can cause considerable medical damage if bitten. Because of there urticating hairs, you may want to ware gloves when cleaning to avoid a very uncomfortable experience. Even though A. geniculata venom isn’t that strong, they make up for in there bite and urticating hairs.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herein represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose Hair) Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Grammostola rosea – Previously known as both Grammostola spatulatus and Grammostola cala, and the debate still drags on whether these are both the same species, but just different color morphs. Time will tell as science moves forward on Tarantulas in general.

Common Name: Chilean Rose Hair

Geographic Range: Chile, Argentina, Bolivia

Habitat/Species type: Terrestrial / New World

• Terrestrial refers to ground dweller, burrower.
• Arboreal refers to tree dwellers.
• New World species found in the Americas tend to be more docile, less venemous, kick urticating hairs for defense.
• Old World species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe, etc… generally more aggressive, stronger venom, more apt to bite.

Temperature: 70*F-85*F Humidity: Low-Moderate

Growth Size: 5″-6″ legspan Experience Level: Beginner

Temperament: Docile, urticating hairs
Tarantulas vary from docile to very aggressive, skittish, nervous, urticating hair flicker. Read “WARNING” at the end of this care sheet!

Food: Crickets and roaches are most common in captivity. You can also offer mealworms, superworms, etc… DO NOT USE wild caught insects due to insecticides/pesticides and parasites threat.

Water: It is IMPORTANT to always keep an open water dish, full of water in your tarantulas enclosure at all times. This keeps them hydrated and helps keep humidity up! For slings, keep substrate moist. For juveniles and adults, water dish should be non-toxic, shallow and no wider than the body length of your tarantula. NEVER USE cotton balls or sponges to supply water or moisture, may promote mold and harmful bacteria that could be harmful to your tarantula and/or it’s enclosure.

Substrate: Peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite.
Provide 4″-12″ of substrate packed down for burrowers. Tarantulas that require low-moderate humidity should be kept on a dry substrate.

Enclosure/Cage: Up to a 10 gal. tank.
Rule of thumb for enclosures is about 1½-2 times the width and length of your tarantula for terrestrial. For arboreal, they need more height then ground space, 1″-2″ of substrate. Provide long pieces of cork bard, branches, etc. to climb on for arboreal. You may provide a hide for a quick retreat if it is startled or feels threatened..

Longevity: Males once mature (2 Years) Females (up to 15 years).

Grammostola rosea

Description:
Grammostola rosea varies from light to dark brown/grey with pink hairs and a brown carapace that appears to be a pinkish/mauve color in the right light. Grammostola rosea lives in shallow burrows/scrapes in the wild’s of it’s native Chile. Grammostola rosea are considered average size tarantula, getting up to a 6″ legspan. Grammostola rosea are very slow growers, taking up to 7 years to become an adult. Adults will molt about once every 1-2 years. Grammostola rosea are also known to go on long fasts, not eating for months at a time. This tarantula is considered one of the slower species.

Keeping in captivity as pets:
For adults you can use medium to large Kritter Keepers, 5 gal tanks, etc… for juveniles, up to 10 gal. tank for adults. This species prefers the dry side, so moderate humidity levels will work and temps between 70*F-85*F work. Substrate can be peat moss, coco fiber or a mixer of peat moss, vermiculite mixture and should be at least 2″-4″ deep to provide adequate burrowing for slings and juveniles. Young Grammostola rosea may burrow, but once they become adults (5-7 years), they tend to just sit around on the surface. I refer to these as “Pet Rocks”. Grammostola rosea are considered the ideal starter Tarantula, due there forgiving nature and easy temperament. Grammostola rosea are generally considered a docile species, certainly handling is possible, but not considered, due to their urticating hairs.

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.

DISCLAIMER: Information contained herin represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Comments on/about/experience are all welcome. There are still allot unknown about certain species, so if you feel this article needs correcting/clarification, please comment below and I will make adjustments where necessary. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

General Tarantula care!

Nhandus chromatus

WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable  and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite.  So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old world species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than new world species. Take all precautions, do research on the species, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.

Disclaimer: Information contained herin was obtained from various sources and my personal experience with Tarantulas. Meant as a guide in overall general care, not specific to any one species of Tarantula. Research the species first before you decide on purchasing any particular species to make sure you understand it’s specific needs and care. Read books, search the Internet, vast information available on care of specific species.

Tarantulas range in size from just a couple inches up to your goliaths (Theraphosa blondi), which have been known to exceed 12″+ legspan (picture a dinner plate). You have terrestrial, which are ground dwelling/burrowing, heavy bodied and require more horizontal space than vertical. Arboreal, which are tree climbing, smaller bodied, longer legs and require more height than ground space and generally moister conditions. New world species found in the Americas, usually less venomous and kick uriticating hairs (very irritating) as a way of defense against predators. They are generally more docile and easier to handle (disclaimer above).  Old world species found throughout the rest of the world, like Asia, Africa, Europe,  etc…usually more venomous and don’t kick uriticating hairs, instead use there bite as a defense and are generally more aggressive.

Levels of experience vary from species to species. There are different species considered for beginner, intermediate and advanced/expert. I’ve list below some species that fit this bill. Always start small and work your way up the ladder of experience as you learn.

For beginners you could go with Acanthoscurria, Aphonopelma, Brachypelma, Eupalaestrus, Grammastola, Lasiodora and Megaphobema species. There relatively easy to care for. Range in size from 5″-7″, except Lasiodora can get up to 11″. More docile than most. Slower moving than most.

For intermediate you could go with Avicularia, Chromatopelma, Haplopelma, Nhandu, Pamphobeteus, Psalmopoeus, Poecilotheria, Pternichilus and Theraphosa. Range in size from 6″-10″, except Theraphosa can get up to 12″+. More aggressiveand should not be handled.Can move  quickly, caution is advised for these.

For advanced there are Hysterocrates and Stromatopelma which range in size from 5″-7″ and are fast, venom more potent, very aggressive. Use extreme caution with these.

Temps: Temperatures  between 75F – 85F are usually sufficient for most species during the day, and down to 65F at night. Low to moderate humidity, which can be maintained with a full shallow dish of water (juveniles/adults) and misting one end of enclosure with water a couple of times a week. With the exception of Theraphosa blondi, which require 90%-100% humidity. It is not recommended to use under tank heaters (uth), as they can damage your specimen.

Feeding: Tarantulas will feed on various insects and even mice in the wild. In the hobby, crickets are widely used. Some people, like myself, prefer to use roaches. Roaches are more nutritious, no odor and don’t hop away.  I have found that if the prey is no longer than the abdomen of your Tarantula, it won’t have any problem catching and eating it’s food. Always remove uneaten food after 24 hrs. to prevent mites or even injury to your tarantula if it decides to molt. Feed slings/juveniles a couple times a week and adults once a week to every other week. If you don’t have prey small enough for your sling, smash/crush a cricket/roach, etc…and your sling should readily except it. Mine do, just my opinion.

Enclosure: Your terrestrials will need anywhere from 1″-10″ or more of substrate (coco fiber, peat moss or either mixed with vermiculite/sand). You can use any safe container/enclosure that will allow for your Tarantula to move around freely, generally a 2.5 – 10+ gal tank will suffice. You have your burrowers (pet holes) and ones that stay on top in one place (pet rocks). Provide a hide of some kind for quick retreat and they feel safe. Always provide a shallow dish of water at all times. It will keep your Tarantula hydrated, necessary for molting and also provide some humidity. Arboreals need a taller enclosure with cork bark or similar for climbing, very little substrate, full water dish, etc…

In nature Tarantulas have lots of room to roam free without any encounters with the same species. While in captivity, individuals must be housed separately to avoid cannibalism. There is an exception to this rule with some Poecilotheria sp. which have been known to be housed communally in small groups. I have seen colonies of up to 20 specimens housed together.

Now you have some basic knowledge of Tarantula care. Feel free to comment if I have left any basic info out. Thanks for reading.

Greg