Greg's Exotic Inverts

Feeder Roaches, Pet Roaches & Supplies!

Posts Tagged ‘moose’

Jousting Male Hissers

Posted by moose9 on August 15, 2010


Watch more videos here!

I was separating one of my G. potentosa roach bins and managed to catch some males left in the bottom fighting, or as I call it, jousting for territory. Cheap entertainment and hilarious to watch. I have probably around 50 or so extra males housed together and they can make quite a ruckus at night between all the jousting going on. They move the egg flats and there food dish around the bin.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Posted in Feeders, Roaches, Videos | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments »

Setting up your Feeder Roach Enclosure

Posted by moose9 on June 14, 2010

Setting up your feeder roach bin is pretty straight forward (will add photos as time permits). Scroll down to see items you will need to successfully setup you first roach bin. If you live in a dry climate, less ventilation to hold humidity in. More humid climate, more ventilation. Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels right and to prevent mold and bacteria from growing. Also try to avoid glass tanks as they don’t hold heat and humidity well.

Roaches are nocturnal, so most will suggest you use a dark-colored container. Although this works for the majority of people, we simply use clear Sterilite plastic bins. In our experience, the light doesn’t bother them. Our roaches produce very well even in clear containers.

Most people will use either Rubbermaid or Sterilite plastic containers. We’ve used both and have switched to Sterilite brand. Reason is it is smoother plastic. We found that newborn B. dubia could scale the sides of certain Rubbermaid bins.

After you have the proper housing container, you’ll need to add ventilation. Take your lid and cut a single hole of around 8×9 inch out. Get some metal screen mesh (window screen) and hot glue it or silicone, whichever you have will work. Hot glue is quicker, silicone needs to cure 24 hours.

Now your ready for egg flats, egg cartons (cardboard, not plastic), cardboard tunes, etc. Something for your roaches to hide in and feel more safe and secure. Setup your egg flats vertically on one end of your roach bin. Roaches will hide in between them.

Add a food and water dish, preferably shallow. Remember, B. dubia cannot climb smooth plastic. If you don’t have a shallow dish, lid, etc… you can take sandpaper and rough up the inside and outside of dishes you’re using.

Add food source! Roaches in general will eat just about anything. A high protein diet is recommended to support a thriving colony. You can get our special blend of roach chow, or use dog food, cereals, oats, etc. Also be sure to give your roaches fruits and veggie scraps each week for variety.

Add a water source! Roaches need a source of water continually to avoid dehydration and ultimately death. One of the best ways to give water to your roaches, is to use water gel. Water gel is made from water crystals, which absorb up to 400 times their mass. Water gel is a safe alternative to plain water, sponges, etc. Unlike water, your roaches can walk on the water gel without drowning. Avoid using sponges, as they can harbor bacteria, mold and fungus, which can be harmful, even fatal to your feeders.

Next, a heat source (for breeding or cooler climates). There are many mays to heat your roach bin. Be sure to use safety precautions when using a heating device with plastic to avoid any kind of fire hazard. People use heating pads (human), UTH (Under Tank Heater), heat tape, heat cables, heat lamp (not recommended). One way we have heated our roach bins was place a heating pad underneath one end of the roach bin. Plug the heating pad into a thermostat to control temps.

Read our care sheet on B. dubia or our FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for more details on maintaining your roaches. The essential items below can also be purchased from the dry goods page.

Supplies Needed:

*Plastic tub/bin (shoe box size up to 73 qt is adequate for most).
*Metal screen mesh (ventilation).
*Egg flats / cartons, paper towel / toilet paper rolls or similar (hiding & breeding).
*Food and water bowls (deli cups, shallow bowls, lids, etc. work well).
*Razor to cut ventilation hole(s).
*Scissors / razor to cut metal screen mesh.
*Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks for gluing metal screen to lid / bin.
*Roach chow for feeding your feeders (high protein dog food works or our special blend).
*Water crystals to make water gel to hydrate & provide humidity for your feeders.
*Roach barrier to prevent climbing of some species & small nymphs (packing tape, Vaseline, etc.).
*Last, but not least, feeder roaches (buy here).

Posted in Feeders, Roaches | Tagged: , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Rosie Molted so no babies!

Posted by moose9 on June 14, 2010

A quick update to those who have followed the progress of my G. rosea breeding project.

I bred her last November 09′. She was getting larger and larger and was due this month! I checked today and she had freshly molted. So it seems I won’t be getting an egg sac after all. Instead I get a fresh molt, what a trade-off.

She is gorgeous though. It’s probably a good thing she molted. Since I had bred her, my roach production and business has skyrocketed. So I wouldn’t have had much time now anyhow, so all is good.

Posted in Breeding, Molted, Tarantulas | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Incubating Bearded Dragon Eggs!

Posted by moose9 on March 11, 2010

When I was breeding my dragons, I would keep the temps inside the incubator at 84F with humidity at around 80%-90%. I no longer keep or breed bearded dragons. They are in my opinion one of the most awesome species of lizards out there. If your new to the hobby and are thinking of breeding your bearded dragons, follow these simple steps for incubating and you too could have 100% hatchouts.

First, when you know your female is ready to deposit her eggs, get your incubator setup. Weather its homemade or commercial, you need to have the temps and humidity ready for the new eggs. Incubating the eggs is simple, the hard part is the long wait and anticipation to hatching.

Okay, after you have your incubator setup and ready to go, your waiting for your female to drop those eggs. In the meantime take a plastic container with a lid about the size of a sandwich holder or larger, but small enough to fit in the incubator. Add vent holes on the side, then fill half way with damp vermiculite (Walmart). I would use vermiculite cause it is bacteria free, doesn’t promote mold or fungus and is better for the eggs.

Now, your females has deposited her eggs and your ancious to dig them up. Don’t dig them up in front of her, place her back into her enclosure or separate container out of site of her eggs. Locate and uncover the eggs very carefully. Use a spoon to pickup the eggs one by one and gently set the eggs on top of the vermiculite in the same position the mother deposited them.

Gently mist or squirt water over the eggs to wash them off. Place the lid on container firmly, date and set in incubator. Periodically check to make sure your temps and humidity are good and also do a visual on the eggs to make sure there still good. When you first put the eggs in, they may collapse slightly, this is normal and they will fill out again after a few days.

If the eggs are good, you’ll see them grow slightly over the 2 month period of waiting. Bad eggs turn yellowish brown, remove if you see these. When its time to hatch, they all should hatch out within a 3 day period. They generally won’t start to eat until there 3rd or 4th day of life. Once they start eating, you better have plenty of food.

I fed baby roaches, both B. dubia and B. lateralis nymphs. If your feeding crickits, you’ll need 2 week old crickets (1/4″). My newborn beardies would eat upwards of 5-10+ roaches a day each plus there mustard greens. They would grow an average of 1/2″ a week on roaches. In six weeks they would be ready to sale at 6″+. If your thinking of selling them, wait till at least 6 weeks of age. At this age there stong enough to handle shipping overnight. Following the info mentioned above and you should have healthy baby dragons.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Posted in Bearded Dragons, Breeding, Tutorials | Tagged: , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

 
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