Greg's Exotic Inverts

Feeder Roaches, Pet Roaches & Supplies!

Archive for the ‘Feeders’ Category

Discoids Feeding!

Posted by moose9 on August 15, 2010


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I was feeding and watering and though I would do an update feeding video of my Blaberus discoidalis roaches. Discoids make a good alternative feeder to B. dubia roaches. Discoids are a little larger, more meat for size. They breed pretty good in large numbers. Discoids have a bit more defensive odor than B. dubia, but nothing overwhelming and nothing like the stench of crickets. If your looking for a good alternative feeder, discoids well suffice. Checkout my website for availability and pricing.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

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Jousting Male Hissers

Posted by moose9 on August 15, 2010


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I was separating one of my G. potentosa roach bins and managed to catch some males left in the bottom fighting, or as I call it, jousting for territory. Cheap entertainment and hilarious to watch. I have probably around 50 or so extra males housed together and they can make quite a ruckus at night between all the jousting going on. They move the egg flats and there food dish around the bin.

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

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Setting up your Feeder Roach Enclosure

Posted by moose9 on June 14, 2010

Setting up your feeder roach bin is pretty straight forward (will add photos as time permits). Scroll down to see items you will need to successfully setup you first roach bin. If you live in a dry climate, less ventilation to hold humidity in. More humid climate, more ventilation. Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels right and to prevent mold and bacteria from growing. Also try to avoid glass tanks as they don’t hold heat and humidity well.

Roaches are nocturnal, so most will suggest you use a dark-colored container. Although this works for the majority of people, we simply use clear Sterilite plastic bins. In our experience, the light doesn’t bother them. Our roaches produce very well even in clear containers.

Most people will use either Rubbermaid or Sterilite plastic containers. We’ve used both and have switched to Sterilite brand. Reason is it is smoother plastic. We found that newborn B. dubia could scale the sides of certain Rubbermaid bins.

After you have the proper housing container, you’ll need to add ventilation. Take your lid and cut a single hole of around 8×9 inch out. Get some metal screen mesh (window screen) and hot glue it or silicone, whichever you have will work. Hot glue is quicker, silicone needs to cure 24 hours.

Now your ready for egg flats, egg cartons (cardboard, not plastic), cardboard tunes, etc. Something for your roaches to hide in and feel more safe and secure. Setup your egg flats vertically on one end of your roach bin. Roaches will hide in between them.

Add a food and water dish, preferably shallow. Remember, B. dubia cannot climb smooth plastic. If you don’t have a shallow dish, lid, etc… you can take sandpaper and rough up the inside and outside of dishes you’re using.

Add food source! Roaches in general will eat just about anything. A high protein diet is recommended to support a thriving colony. You can get our special blend of roach chow, or use dog food, cereals, oats, etc. Also be sure to give your roaches fruits and veggie scraps each week for variety.

Add a water source! Roaches need a source of water continually to avoid dehydration and ultimately death. One of the best ways to give water to your roaches, is to use water gel. Water gel is made from water crystals, which absorb up to 400 times their mass. Water gel is a safe alternative to plain water, sponges, etc. Unlike water, your roaches can walk on the water gel without drowning. Avoid using sponges, as they can harbor bacteria, mold and fungus, which can be harmful, even fatal to your feeders.

Next, a heat source (for breeding or cooler climates). There are many mays to heat your roach bin. Be sure to use safety precautions when using a heating device with plastic to avoid any kind of fire hazard. People use heating pads (human), UTH (Under Tank Heater), heat tape, heat cables, heat lamp (not recommended). One way we have heated our roach bins was place a heating pad underneath one end of the roach bin. Plug the heating pad into a thermostat to control temps.

Read our care sheet on B. dubia or our FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) for more details on maintaining your roaches. The essential items below can also be purchased from the dry goods page.

Supplies Needed:

*Plastic tub/bin (shoe box size up to 73 qt is adequate for most).
*Metal screen mesh (ventilation).
*Egg flats / cartons, paper towel / toilet paper rolls or similar (hiding & breeding).
*Food and water bowls (deli cups, shallow bowls, lids, etc. work well).
*Razor to cut ventilation hole(s).
*Scissors / razor to cut metal screen mesh.
*Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks for gluing metal screen to lid / bin.
*Roach chow for feeding your feeders (high protein dog food works or our special blend).
*Water crystals to make water gel to hydrate & provide humidity for your feeders.
*Roach barrier to prevent climbing of some species & small nymphs (packing tape, Vaseline, etc.).
*Last, but not least, feeder roaches (buy here).

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Before you Buy your Feeders Roaches!

Posted by moose9 on February 15, 2010


Watch more videos here!

Setting up your feeder roaches!
The video shows one variation of how a typical setup would be for your B. dubia / B. lateralis and various other feeder roaches. Items you may need are listed below. If you live in a dry climate, less ventilation to hold humidity in. More humid climate, more ventilation. Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels right and to prevent mold and bacteria from growing. Also try to avoid glass tanks as they don’t hold heat and humidity well. The essential items below can also be purchased from our website.

Supplies Needed:

  • Plastic tub/bin (shoe box size up to 73 qt is adequate for most).
  • Metal screen mesh (ventilation).
  • Egg flats / cartons, paper towel / toilet paper rolls or similar (hiding & breeding).
  • Food and water bowls (deli cups, shallow bowls, lids, etc. work well).
  • Razor to cut ventilation hole(s).
  • Scissors / razor to cut metal screen mesh.
  • Hot glue gun & hot glue sticks for gluing metal screen to lid / bin.
  • Roach chow for feeding your feeders (high protein dog food works or our special blend).
  • Water crystals to make water gel to hydrate & provide humidity for your feeders.
  • Roach barrier to prevent climbing of some species & small nymphs (packing tape, Vaseline, etc.).
  • Last, but not least, feeder roaches (purchase here).

Shoe box size containers work great if you just need a small colony to feed a couple or a few tarantulas, etc. If you have larger reptiles or need a larger colony, then step up to a larger tub / bin. If all you can find are clear tubs / bins, thats fine too. Roaches are nocturnal for the most part and prefer it dark. Take some black or dark colored paper and mask around your roach bin to give the roaches the darkness they desire. Personally, we use clear bins and the roaches continue to breed without a problem.

Before you begin preparing your roach bin, make some water gel from the water crystals you may of gotten with your roaches. Water crysals are a safe alternative to keeping your roaches hydrated without the risk of drowning. Takes a few hours to make, so now is a good time to start.

Use scissors / razor to cut a hole out of your lid anywhere from a quater the length to full, depending on where you live. If its dry in your area, smaller hole to keep humidity in. If its more humid where you live, more ventilation to keep condensation from building. Use a hot glue gun or similar to glue / secure a piece of metal screen mesh over the hole you cut.

Even though most feeder roaches are non-climbing, the newborn baby nymphs can generally climb because there so small and light. So as a precaution, use clear packing tape, roach barrier or similar along the inside top portion of your roach bin. A good 2″-3″ strip will usually kreep them in.

Now add a few egg flats / cartons, placing them vertically close together. Helps the roaches feel more secure and comfortable allowing them to hide and breed better. Leave room to add a food and water container as well. Any shallow bowl or lid will work just fine. Add some high protein roach chow, dog food or similar to one of the bowls and water gel to the other.

Most feeder roaches don’t require any substrate, so none is needed. It just makes it more difficult to cull your coloony for new nymphs as most like to burrow first chance they get. Well now your reeady to add your roaches. If you bought them from Greg’s Exotic Inverts, they’ll be in a small video size box or similar. Take the box of feeders and open it over your roach bin. Using your fingers, tongs or similar, pull the piece of egg flat out with roaches atatched. Either shake feeders loose or set piece of egg flat in bin and remove latert. Dump / shake remaining feeders into bin and your setup.

Roaches are very easy to keep, breed and maintain. I sugest you use 3 tubs / bins. One for breeders, one for feeders and a spare for containing feeders while cleaning. Happy roaching!!!!

Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.

Posted in Breeding, Feeders, Roaches, Videos | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

 
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