Private breeder of Tarantulas, Scorpions, 4 types of Roaches and Superorms. Resides in sunny S. Ca. This blog is all about my collection of various critters. You'll find care sheets, tutorials and various information on my Reptiles & Inverts.
A short video on my Nauphoeta cinerea (Lobster Roach) colony. Tropical species found in the Carribean.
These roaches are slightly larger than B. lateralis and fast. Prolific breeders and multiply readily even with minimal care, females give live birth. Both males and females are winged. As with most of your common feeder roaches, a plastic bin or tote will work to contain them
This species climbs, so you’ll need a barrier of some kind like Vaseline or similar to keep them in. You can purchase slick roach barrier that I use from my website. The roach barrier we use withstands high temps and won’t run like Vaseline when the weather warms up. To keep roaches in, just smear a thin 2-3 inch layer around the top inside edge of your container. From what Ii have seen, they seem to want to stay in, more than climb out.
Use egg flats or similar to provide hiding areas for your N. cinerea. As you can see in the video, we’re using carboard cell partions instead egg flats. The adsvantage is they have more surface area to hang around and breed. The bin has better ventilation to prevent unwanted gases, etc. to build up. Much easier to clean and maintain.
Some people use substrate in there roach bins, such as bran, coco fiber, etc., but that makes it harder to keep the roach enclosure clean. It also difficult to get the baby N. cinerea roaches out of the bedding as they will hide in it.
N. cinerea roaches mature in about about 3-4 months from newborn to adult. Once females are gravid, they will carry young for approximately one month and give live birth to 30-40 nymphs every month or so. The nymphs are very small, about 3/16″, but grow quickly. As with most feeder roaches, a high protein diet, plus a good moisture source, like water gel, and your colony will be thriving in no time. It is best to allow your N. cinerea roach colony to become fully established before feeding heavily out of it. Six months is a good time to allow the colony to establish before feeding them off. The more adult breeders there are, the more young are produced.
Important note: Once your N. cinerea colony becomes sizeable, it is best to split them up. If you don’t, be prepared, sooner or later the the colony will literally explode. Roaches can produce a toxic gas that can and may kill your entire colony unless it is well ventilated. I had this experience with B. lateralis species. Lost 1000’s because I kept putting off the culling process. Once your colony is established, you’ll have plenty of different size feeders for your pets.
I should have N. cinerea for sale in a few months. I will do another update around May to show how the colony has grown.
Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.
I recently added 3 new species of roaches to my collection. This bring my collection up to 8 species now.
Recently added: Blaberus craniifer (True Death Head Roach) Black wings B. craniifer comes from Central America, Mexico, and Florida. This species ranges in size from 1.5″-2″+ (40-55mm) in length. It gets its name “Death’s Head Roach” from the pattern on its pronotum (behind head) that looks like a skull. Personally I think it looks like a bear face. This species is still highly sought after by roach enthusiasts and one of the hardest to find in the hobby. True B. craniifer are very light almost white around the pronotum and have jet-black wings. These roaches usually mature in 3-5 months and then live another 6-18 months. Both males and females have wings. This is a non-climbing/flying species and also used as feeders.
Gromphadorhina portentosa (Madagascar hissing cockroach) Normal Hisser
The Gromphadorhina Portentosa, (Madagascan Hissing Cockroach) comon hissier is brown, with orange markings on its abdomen. Hissers don’t have wings or wings pads at any stage in its life. G. Portentosa has small holes (spiracles) for breathing along its back. If the hissing cockroach forces air out quickly, it makes a hissing sound similar to snake. It makes a hissing sound when threatened or to establish dominance between males. G. Portentosa are nocturnal and generally active at night. When fully grown, the male and female cockroaches look different. G. Portentosa can climb smooth surfaces. A thin coat of petrolium jelly or similar around the top portion of the enclosure, about a 2 inch strip will work just fine. You can also keep them in with a screened lid.
Males of this species are very territorial and need there space for successful breeding. G. Portentosa are live bearers and reproduce fairly slowly, about evey 60 days compared to B. dubia, which is about every 30 days. G. Portentosa can be used as feeders when the roaches are in thier growth stage as young nymphs, before adults when there shell get to hard for most reptiles to digest. This species of roach gets very big, about 3.5+” and quite heavy. G. Portentosa make for a great diplay pets, weather it be in a classroom or at home.
These roaches can be quite comical to watch when the males joust with the big spikes on the thorax. There very handlable. At first they’ll seem to want to get away, but calm down shortly after then remain calm and very docile.
Blaberus giganteus (Giant Cave Roach) B. giganteus comes from the West Indies and throughout Central and South America. This species ranges in size from 2.75″-3.5″+. This is one of the larger species of roaches. B. giganteus roaches take 9-12 months to reach adulthood, considerably longer, then most blaberus species. They live another 3-15 months after maturing into adults. This is a non-climbing species of smooth glass and plastic. Both males and females get large wings (wing spans may be up to 5”). Females are to heavy to fly after final molt, but lighter males will attempt to fly. Although the males can’t sustain flight very long, they can often jump a couple of feet high, so a screen top or similir is a must. Males can be seen jumping around when they are fighting with other males. This species is generally kept as display pets, but can also be used as feeders for various reptiles and inverts. Beautiful roach as adults.
I will be doing video updates later on all these species.
Update:
My Blaberus fusca (Dwarf Cave Roach) are now upwards of 20 or so and doing well. Started with just the mal and female back in May of 2009. She has produced 3 ootheca so far. The first ones to hatch are now about the size of a quarter.
DISCLAIMER: Information contained herein represents various resources and my own personal experience with this particular species. Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.
Feeders: B. dubia roaches.
These are great feeders for various reptiles and inverts of all sizes. The video review above was done by tomcatpilot13, another satisfied customer who had purchased some large B. dubia nymphs for his bearded dragons.
DISCLAIMER: Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.
WARNING: Tarantulas are unpredictable and can change there disposition at anytime and may bite. So handling is never advised unless you’re experienced. Old World species tend to be more venomous (stronger venom) than New World species who have urticating hairs. Take all precautions, do some research on the species you plan to own, etc…before handling these wonderful creatures.
Thought I would do a tarantula handling video for a client who had asked me how to safely handle her new B. smithi as it grows. While doing another breeding attempt with my G. rosea’s, I had the male in my hands and thought “handling video”. He cooperated really well.
Before attempting to hold your tarantula, test to make sure it is safe. You should never just reach in and grab your tarantula. You risk getting bit. If your tarantula is hungry, it could easily mistake your finger for a giant roach. Watch this feeding video to see how fast a tarantula can attack your finger when reaching in to pickup.
To attempt a safe pickup of your tarantula, take a paint brush, or a pair of tongs or similar and gently nudge the tarantulas back end. If it flicks urticating hairs, or worse yet, turns around rapidly and bites whatever your using to probe, then its not a good time to handle.
If however your tarantula scrolls up the side after nudging, then gently hold your hand at the edge for it to crawl onto. When handling your tarantula, never hold hi above the floor. Tarantulas bodies are very delicate. If it should fall from a couple of feet or more, it could severally injure or be fatal. So always take precautions and handle over a table, counter, bed or on the floor.
When handling your tarantula, they generally will walk forward in your hands. As your tarantula moves forward, move your free hand under and forward of your other hand so the tarantula has a consistant path to walk. While handling, never breathe or blow directly the tarantula. Doing so could startle it and cause it to become nervous and run off your hands.
Always place your hand in front when attempting to pickup. Only advanced keepers should attempt grabbing from above or behind. When done handling, just place your hand palm up inside the tarantulas enclosure and let it walk off gradually. Now you can safely handle your tarantula without to many concerns.
Valid comments on/about/experience are all welcome. Spam, hate, offensive, etc… will be ignored/deleted. Your welcome to share videos as long as it is doesn’t violate any terms. Thanks for reading, Greg Hagedorn.
